Friday, May 8, 2015

Switzerland: Part I of II

May 2-8, 2015

This post will include the first week of our European vacation in Interlaken (Part I), Luzern & the Bernina Express scenic train to Lugano (Part II). I will continue in another post the second week spent in northern Italy in Cinque Terre and Tuscany.

Saturday May 2, 2015
As I said in the last post, we took the first train out of Eindhoven we could to get to Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam at 8:30 for our 9:35am KLM flight to Zurich.
Our girls are off to a great start this trip: holding hands on the train ride
The moment we came up from the Schiphol train station platform to the airport check-in area we knew we were in for trouble. The crowds were extremely difficult to break through from the elevator location. We finally made it over to the KLM Skypriority check-in line. Even the priority lines were 6+ parties deep. Time kept ticking on the clock as we waited and waited to check-in our bags for our 2 week vacation trip. Each of us were getting more and more nervous each passing second. For how well traveled the 4 of us are with our 2 little ones, we still could not believe we were in this situation.
The boys finally get up to the counter as the irritated desk clerk notifies us minutes later that we cannot check in our bags because our gate had already been closed. We were not going to make it on this flight! Ugh! They sent us over to the ticket counter to figure out what to do now…
Jackie nursed Brooklyn while the guys talked to the agent to get us on the next flight to Zurich. We got tickets for a noon flight on another cityhopper. The reason the gate doors close so early is because all passengers exit the gate and then board the plane from outside on the loading tarmac for these smaller flights. It’s basically the equivalent of flying one or 2 states over.
We boarded first with our little ones. Unfortunately we could not get seats together. The only 2 together were in an exit row, which babies are not allowed to sit in so they guys lucked out there. Jackie took a window seat with Brooklyn because she would need to nurse during takeoff and landing. Emily was in the same row as Jackie, but couldn’t change seats to sit next to Jackie and Brooklyn because there was only one infant oxygen mask per set of 2 seats. I felt bad for those poor ladies who had to sit in the aisle and deal with our little ones.
We were so happy to finally be boarding our KLM cityhopper flight from Amsterdam Schiphol airport to Zurich. 
Ready for the plane to take off from Amsterdam to Zurich #barfbagbabychewtoy #whateverkeepsherhappy #babies9thflight 
One field patch of Dutch yellow tulips (I think) seen during takeoff 
Switzerland from the air
I love the fields of yellow wildflowers 
Once we got all our checked luggage we used the ATM to get out some Swiss Franks and began writing in our 4 day Swiss Rail passes before boarding the train from Zurich to Interlaken via Bern. Prior to getting to Switzerland, we order 4 Swiss Travel Pass Flex 4 days for 286 CHF (Swiss Franks) a piece. We used our first day today to go from Zurich to Interlaken.
Happy Brooklyn in the backpack we wait for the train in Zurich
Happy Brooklyn sitting in her own seat on the train ride from Zurich to Interlaken
Train ride from Zurich to Interlaken with my loves 
We quickly passed through Bern. The town of Thun on the end of Lake Thun looked nice. Interlaken is named literally for being between 2 lakes: Thunersee (Lake Thun) and Brienzersee (Lake Brienz).
We arrived at Interlaken Ost (east) train station just after 5pm.
Of course as we began our walk to our rental property, it began to rain. Rain, HARD.
It felt like a much longer 20 minute walk in the rain as we tried to sort through the directions with very few street signs. It was a 3 bedroom portion of a property. Harper slept in Jason and Emily’s walk-in closet because it was the easiest to block out the light. We first set Brooklyn up in the third bedroom but it was very cold in there because a window had been left open. She woke up several times throughout the night. We ended up moving the pack-n-play to our bedroom.

Sunday May 3, 2015
The weather was really crummy. Our plans to make our way up the alpine rails were halted for the day due to the weather. We decided to press our luck and hope for clearer weather the next two days to take journeys up into the higher elevations.
After getting drenched walking in from the train station, we made sure we’d be properly dressed for going out today. We used our big neon tarp-like travel bag as a rain cover over Brooklyn’s backpack that would really protect her from getting wet in the cold. 
We walked to Interlaken Ost train station. We decided today was the day we would not use one of our 4 days on the Swiss Travel Pass since we were only going to take the train to Lauterbrunnen to go visit the Trummelbach Falls. One ticket to Lauterbrunnen from Interlaken Ost was only 7.60 CHF. It was now that we realized just how efficient the Swiss trains are. We weren’t sure on the exact next steps on how to get from the train platform to the bus to Trummelbach Falls. After a little looking around, we stepped into the ticket office to inquire about where to go. They have the busses timed perfectly with the train arrival. We ended up just missing the bus and needed to wait 30 minutes for the next one. We walked down the main street in Lauterbrunnen.
Thankfully it had stopped raining at the train station.
Lauterbrunnen train station 
Lauterbrunnen 







There was heavy cloud cover in Lauterbrunnen 




Jackie, Joe and Brooklyn in Lauterbrunnen

Harper, Jason and Emily in Lauterbrunnen 
Selfie in Lauterbrunnen 
Large waterfall in Lauterbrunnen 

Snowcapped mountains in the distance from Lauterbrunnen
Cliffside falls in Lauterbrunnen 
Nice view while breastfeeding Brooklyn in Lauterbrunnen
The clouds were starting to clear in Lauterbrunnen
After all our research before leaving the house, no website mentioned how children under the age of 4 were not allowed in the waterfalls. It cost 11CF a person. We took turns going into the falls. Jackie and Emily went in first while Joe and Jason watched the girls. 
We took the elevator up through the mountain and then climbed several sets of wet stairs.
Lauterbrunnen Valley


The view back into Lauterbrunnen with more cliffside waterfalls



The view back into Lauterbrunnen
The view of more cliffside waterfalls in Lauterbrunnen
Trümmelbachfälle is 10 cascades lit inside the mountain accessible via a tunnel elevator. These rushing waterfalls flow from glaciers on Eiger (3970m), Mӧnch (4099m) and Jungfrau (4158m). The water flows up to 20,000 liters (5,200 gallons) of water per second. It is a UNESCO world natural heritage site.





Emily and Jackie selfie within Trümmelbachfälle

Emily at Trümmelbachfälle 
Swiss town of Lauterbrunnen
Now the guys took a turn visiting the falls while the girls watched the girls.
Harper eating a snack
Brooklyn and momma 

Train ride back to Interlaken
Crazy babies on the train back to Interlaken
I’d say this girl likes riding the train 
We decided to walk toward the main area of Interlaken for dinner, preferably somewhere with some fondue, both cheese and chocolate.
Flowers in the roundabout in Interlaken
More flower beds in Interlaken; oh and FYI Europe is to the right 
Skydivers parachuting into Höhematte in Interlaken
Flowers in Höhematte Park in the center of Interlaken



Apparently a lot of Bollywood movies are filmed here. The Asian tourist population is hoppin! It was crowded around the Caisno Kursaal and the fancy shops surrounding it.
Fancy hotels in Interlaken
We had a fondue dinner of both cheese and chocolate in Interlaken.
Selfie in Interlaken
Waterfall in Interlaken
Starting to make out mountain peaks from Interlaken

Open field for skydivers to land in Höhematte in Interlaken with neighboring Catholic and Protestant church steeples

Jackie, Joe and Brooklyn in Interlaken as the clouds clear the reveal the mountain peaks
Both Jackie and Joe stuck out their tongue at the same time
Jackie, Joe and Brooklyn in Interlaken
Walking the streets of Interlaken 

In every German-speaking country we are in the search for the perfect Ausfahrt sign. It’s a little high, but I think you get the idea. 

Monday May 4, 2015
30 weeks old (almost 7 months!)
Not the best photo as we travel but she is loving visiting her 6th country! Netherlands, Germany, US, France, Belgium & Switzerland!
This cutie now naps on her tummy and today is snuggled with her night night using it as a pillow 
A picture of our 3 bedroom rental property Jungfrau views (on clear days) which included other properties and not just ours 

The view from our 3 bedroom rental property in Interlaken of Jungfrau

Brooklyn leaning her head out the side of the pack to see Interlaken as we walked to the train station 
We used our second day of our Swiss Travel Pass. The Swiss Pass only gave us a free ride up to Grindelwald. Here is a good map showing the Jungfrau region and the areas we visited. Yesterday we went to Lauterbrunnen and its valley. Today we will go to Grindelwald. Tomorrow we will go to Mürren and onto Schilthorn. 
A few photos from our train ride to Grindelwald


Grindelwald train station
Selfie in Grindelwald
We stopped in the Coop for all the makings of a picnic lunch. We enjoyed our meat, cheese, bread, chips and wine at a playground in Grindelwald.
There was a lot of playground equipment that would never be allowed in the US
You can’t beat this Grindelwald scenery on our picnic lunch

Brooklyn on the swing
The swing was a little big, so Harper joined Brooklyn!

I think Harper wishes Brooklyn wasn’t in there with her 



Brooklyn still seems happy
Brooklyn on the spider web swing with daddy
The cable car from Grindelwald to First was not open so we changed our plans.
We had to buy tickets from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg for 30 CHF a piece.
A few photos from the train ride up the mountain from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg:





Brooklyn wants the camera
Donkeys 

Train in the mountains




Homes in Grindelwald with a beautiful mountain range backdrop




Happy girl on the train
Train wizzing through the tunnel



We’ve now reached snow on the ground in the higher elevations.
Blue skies behind the clouds on the mountain peaks


We had a 10 minute window to decide if we were going to buy additional tickets and continue up to Jungfrau. There was still substantial cloud cover with not much better of a view showing on the active cameras and it cost 50 CHF a piece to continue up. We decided to stay put for a bit at Kleine Scheidegg and that it wasn’t worth the additional cost to take the train through the tunnels up to the Jungfrau peak.
Jason and Emily helping make the judgement call in the ticket office 
Jungfraujoch from Kleine Scheidegg taken with our longer telephoto lens
Here is a photo of the Jungfraujoch, the Top of Europe since we didn’t go
Ski lifts near Eiger

Kleine Scheidegg train station, restaurant and souvenir shop

Kleine Scheidegg is at elevation 2061m (6762ft)
Rain lines at Kleine Scheidegg before they ran up to Jungfraujoch

Bernese Alp Mountains looking southeast from Kleine Scheidegg
Eiger, Mӧnch and Jungfrau mountains
Emily at Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraujoch rail lines
Joe and Brooklyn with the train from Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch running behind them

Such a good dad about to drop his baby on the train tracks
Looking back northeast toward Grindelwald from Kleine Scheidegg


Ten minutes after the train for Jungfraujoch left (the building in the lower center on the peaks); the clouds clear to this amazing blue sky
A part of me died inside realizing that we may have just lost out on the only clear portion on the day, but we had a pretty amazing view down here at Kleine Scheidegg.
Mӧnch and Jungfraujoch
Train loading at Kleine Scheidegg for the Top of Europe, the highest Alpine destination on the continent 

Mӧnch 
Brooklyn was really struggling to sleep the whole time we were at Kleine Scheidegg thus far so Jackie breastfed her and she was out like a fat kid in dodgeball. 

Train coming down from Jungfraujoch to Kleine Scheidegg





We sadly also couldn’t do the highly recommended hike between Kleine Scheidegg and Männlichen. The rail lines were not operational to Männlichen so we would have had to hike the entire way back with our babies on our backs in lots of snow. 
We still took a walk over to an observation tower to get away from the train station a bit and enjoy the scenery now that there was a great break from the cloudy weather.
Emily and Jason (and Harper napping in the backpack) seem very happy at Kleine Scheidegg
Jackie and Joe (and Brooklyn napping in the backpack) began to trek through the snow over toward Jason and Emily who were already heading to the observation tower
Buildings along the hike from the Kleine Scheidegg train station to the observation tower
Joe in the foreground; Jason, Harper and Emily in the middle ground; and the observation tower in the background
Emily and Jason on the hike at Kleine Scheidegg 
Harpers awake and ready to check out the sights at Kleine Scheidegg
Other buildings at Kleine Scheidegg at the base of the north face of Eiger 
We continued on our hike through the snow to the observation tower at Kleine Scheidegg 

Observation tower by Kleine Scheidegg

The clouds were starting to move back in around Jungfraujoch


Train riding through the snowy slopes 
A man at peace in the mountains
Taking in the view
Observation tower at Kleine Scheidegg with Eiger and Mӧnch peaks beyond
Beautiful Alps from Kleine Scheidegg




Bernese Alps panorama at Kleine Scheidegg 
Looking back at the Kleine Scheidegg train station and the Mӧnch peak, Jungfraujoch & Jungfrau peak from the observation tower
Swiss Alps. We miss the mountains
Wright bear hug
Wright fist to the face
Wright beard bite
Wright family photo
Emily in the Bernese Alps at Kleine Scheidegg


Jackie, Joe and Brooklyn in the Bernese Alps at Kleine Scheidegg
Selfie in the Bernese Alps at Kleine Scheidegg
Trekking back to the train station skirting the edge of the snow
We bought tickets down from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen (the remainder of the trip from Wengen to Interlaken West was free with our Swiss Pass) for 17.40 CHF.
Jungfraujoch train climbing up the mountain 


Brooklyn seems shocked she’s sitting in her own seat on the train
Brooklyn and Jackie on the train ride in the Bernese Alps
Brooklyn’s sticking out her tongue
Brooklyn copying mommy
Brooklyn smiling for the camera
Emily and Harper on the train ride in the Bernese Alps

Train ride back down the Bernese Alps from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen

Train ride into Wengen















Brooklyn and Joe after riding the Wengernalpbahn
Daddy kisses on the train to Interlaken
So funny story about where we had to try to eat for dinner. In the Netherlands we went to get Indonesian but Jason kept getting confused and calling it Lebanese. Same thing right? Anyways Emily was reading the guest book at our Interlaken property and someone mentioned a great Lebanese restaurant nearby. It was like it was destiny. Lebanese for dinner it is.
We ate dinner at Layaly Beirut, a Lebanese restaurant in Interlaken. 
Beautiful hotel building in Interlaken 

Tuesday May 5, 2015
We used our third day on the Swiss Travel Pass to travel up the Berner Oberland mountains and then later on to Luzern for the night.
We left our rental property and left our luggage in lockers at the Interlaken Ost train station.
We took the train up to Lauterbrunnen again.
These cute girls ready for another train ride
Joe hung Brooklyn out the train window like a dog
I think she liked the wind blowing through her hair 
Mürrenbach waterfall 430m
We got on the bus to the Gimmelwald cable car station that will take us further up to Schilthorn. The cable car lift tickets from Mürren to Schilthorn cost 40.00 CHF a piece.
First cable car ride was from Stechelberg (922m/3025ft) to Gimmelwald (1367m/4485ft).
Looking up at Mürren from the Gimmelwald cable car 



Next we took the cable car ride up from Gimmelwald (1367m/4485ft) to Mürren (1634m/5361ft)
View from Mürren Schilthornbahn station 
Next we took the cable car from Mürren (1634m/5361ft) to Birg (2677m/8783ft)
Riding up on the cable car to Birg 


The view down from our ride up to Birg
Birg (2677m/8783ft)
We took one final cable car ride from Birg (2677m/8783ft) to Schilthorn (2971m/9748ft).
Schilthorn is at 2971m/9748ft (3000ft higher than yesterday’s Kleine Scheidegg).
We ate lunch at the solar-powered revolving Piz Gloria restaurant on top of 9,748ft Schilthorn. Every 48 minutes you return to the same place, similar to the restaurant in the Space Needle. We were so preoccupied trying to figure out what to order, deal with our little ones and then eat our own meals, that we didn’t take any good pictures in the revolving restaurant. 
Swiss Bernese Alps from Schilthorn






This is where we came from up the cable car to Schilthorn. You can see the intermediate shelter between Birg and Schilthorn on the peak in the foreground in case there are weather emergencies.

Joe at Schilthorn
The building on Schilthorn has the rotating Piz Gloria restaurant.
Harper, Jason and Emily at Schilthorn
Selfie at Schilthorn
The best part of this photo is both babies passed out.
We took a peak in Bond World 007 exhibit and saw the paraphernalia, mostly pertaining to On Her Majesty’s Secret Service which used the Schilthorn as one of its major locations. 
Birg (2677m) cable car station
The Swiss Bernese Alps from Birg




We walked out on the new Skyline Walk at Birg, a transparent walkway jutting over the precipice that just opened in 2014.
Jackie taking in the Bernese Alps expanse of Eiger, Mӧnch, and Jungfrau at the Birg Skyline Walk
Jackie at Birg with Jungfrau beyond

Yep that’s a glass floor that Jackie is standing on at the Birg Skyline Walk
Jason standing on the glass floor Birg Skyline Walk
Joe (and Brooklyn napping) at the Birg Skyline Walk 
Cable car coming into Birg from Mürren


Crunched the snow beneath our boots at the Birg station

Mountain view from cable car platform at Birg
Getting ready to take the cable car down from Birg
Mürren from Birg 
Selfie before getting on the cable car down from Birg
Crazy selfie 
Jackie, Joe and the hidden Brooklyn riding the cable car to Birg
Jason talking up some ladies in Mürren since he is now an expert after reading Rick Steves. We’re on a first name basis now: ol’ Dickie 
We walked through the town of Mürren which is perched on ledge 2,000 feet above the Lauterbrunnen Valley. 



Emily in Mürren
True ALPine architecture 

Emily taking a drink of fresh alpine water
Jason taking a drink of fresh alpine water
We continued and made the hike down from Mürren to Gimmelwald.
Jason in Mürren with a cable rail line behind 
Shots of the cable car as we walked down from Mürren to Gimmelwald


Selfie on our hike down from Mürren to Gimmelwald
Joe, Jackie & hidden napping Brooklyn hiking in the Bernese Alps
Rustic farmland sheds of the Bernese Alps near Mürren
Joe continuing down the walking path from Mürren to Gimmelwald
Jason and Jackie really like these simple green roof canopies in Mürren


Swiss Bernese Alps 






Mürrenbach water flow control for the waterfall
Joe hiking the Bernese Alps

Emily hiking the Bernese Alps
Jackie hiking the Bernese Alps 
It was around this time that Jackie discussed her deep desire to find cows grazing along the hike through the Alps.
The traditional Swiss cow farmers are given government subsidies to break even making cheese. The cows can graze from as high as 5,000 feet elevation throughout the year. In the summer (usually mid-June), the farmer straps elaborate ceremonial bells on the cows and takes them up to a hut at the high elevations. The bells weigh upward of 10 pounds. The cows must hate them. Where the cows are, the bells are hung under the hut’s roof eaves. All of the cow’s milk in the summer months is made into Alp cheese because it would be too hard to bring the liquid milk down the mountains. When the cows make their journey back down the mountain, the farmers may load the cows onto the cable cars to avoid the snow in the way. Every 2 months or so Gimmelwald farmers gather their cows that aren’t doing so well , herd them into the cable car, in order to meet the butcher in the valley below. Emily and Jason taking in the view of the Bernese Alps
Jackie could swear she could hear cowbells…
Emily hiking Bernese Alps where the goats are grazing
Goats grazing around the cable car post base

The three leg wooden tripod mountings with a young tree planted are snow slide barriers to prevent avalanches and shelter newly planted trees.
Cable car crossing through the Bernese Alps 

Donkeys at a Bernese Alps farm


Jackie saw her cows wearing cowbells 
As Jackie turned the corner of the trail, she saw baby goats bounding forward toward their mama to drink some milk. It was the cutest thing! 




A beautiful Alpine farm
Tulips in the Bernese Alps
More flowers
I know how much Wes loves flowers…how about dandelions? 
Harper delicately touching the dandelions

Harper hiked down the stairs with Jason’s help
Brooklyn is now woke up from her nap in the backpack 
Family photo in the Bernese Alps 
Aww come on mom
Emily, Harper and Jason Wright family photo in the Bernese Alps
Momma and baby girl
Jackie & Brooklyn and Emily & Harper 
Jason continuing to help Harper hike down to the Gimmelwald cable car station
There was an awesome playground slide at the Gimmelwald station
Joe scouted out the Via Ferrata Suspension Bridge. It was not open yet this season, but Joe is ready to make plans to come back and walk across this bridge from cliffside to cliffside.
Jackie and Brooklyn riding the cable car down

There was a large Asian tourist group on the cable car. They all wanted to touch Harper and take her picture. It was pretty awkward.
Emily and Harper dealing with all the attention

We retrieved all our luggage and departed on a train from Interlaken Oost to Luzern.
Our train passed by Lake Brienz (Brienzersee)






Our first sight of the beginnings of Lake Lucerne 
Of course as soon as that happens, the rain comes. Go figure. Fortunately our hotel was a short less than 10 minute walk from the Lucerne train station.
We exited the station and began to walk along the Reuss past the swimming swans and Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke). 
We turned down Burgerstrasse to Hotel Stern Luzern. 
It was incredibly hot inside. Because we got in after 6pm, we had to checkin with those at the hotel restaurant. There are only 15 rooms in this hotel. Once we finally got checked in and given our keys, we had to take turns taking the 20”x20” elevator up to the third floor.
Jackie stayed upstairs in the room with Brooklyn while the other adults went to have a drink downstairs at the restaurant. She did some reading on Luzern and where to go the next day. It was a rough night for little Brooklyn. She has been getting up at 5:30am almost every day and waking up in the middle of the night with no way to soothe her back to sleep without nursing. Jackie could not wait to get back home and get this little girl back into shape when she didn’t have to worry about the babies cries waking other guests in neighboring rooms. 

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